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Ancho chilies are one of the most important all-purpose chilies in Mexican cooking, making them an essential item at any well-stocked Mexican or Latin grocery store. In areas catering to large Mexican populations, or where Tex-Mex food is particularly popular, they may be found in well-stocked big-box grocery stores as well. Ground ancho chilies are frequently found in the spice aisle in large conventional grocery stores.

While anchos are an important Mexican ingredient, they are not a particularly common in the “Mexican” section found in many grocery stores, which tends to lean towards pre-packaged Tex-Mex. That being said, ground anchos can generally be found in the spice section at many of these stores. Ancho chili flakes are somewhat more difficult to find, but they are easily prepared from whole anchos (see below).

For the hardcore DIY fan with access to fresh poblano chilies, ancho chiles can be made at home (it helps to have good knowledge of dehydrating food). It is worth noting however that ancho cilies are made from dried RIPE (i.e. red) poblanos, not the green unripe ones that are generally found and used fresh.

Ground ancho chili powder can also be made at home relatively easily by toasting and pulverizing anchos, ideally in a food processor or spice grinder. It’s fairly easy to achieve a chili flake consistency, though you may find it harder to a true powder consistency without added drying stages and a high quality spice grinder.

Ancho chili peppers should be dry and firm but still pliant – extremely brittle and damaged peppers should be avoided if possible. Likewise, very soft peppers may have been exposed to moisture and should be avoided. Because of their tough-but-flexible skin and flat shape, ancho chilies tend to hold up fairly well without breaking or cracking. That being said, cracked or torn anchos might be encountered; as long as they’re still supple, these are fine to use (though the broken ones will often spill seeds all over the place). The colour should be a very deep reddish- or brown-black colour. The stems, which are very thick and fleshy on fresh poblanos, often appear woody and shredded on ancho chilies. This is normal.

Ancho chili powder should have a strong, pleasant smell and a rich, deep colour. The flavour starts to fade after the chilies are processed, so try to find the freshest and most recently-ground chili powder that you can.

Ancho chilies can very a great deal in size, ranging anywhere from 8-18 cm (3-7 inches) long. All of them will possess a broad-shouldered, roughly triangular shape (ancho means ‘wide’). Variation in size does not particularly affect the flavour, quality, or heat of the peppers (as noted in the basic info above, the heat is generally mild with occasional unpredictable variation). Choose a consistent size if you plan to use recipes calling for a certain number (rather than weight) of peppers in order to achieve consistent results. Whenever possible, try to cook with ancho chilies by weight, rather than number to avoid confusion.

This section deals with uses for ancho chilies – for information about preparing them, check the “Preparation and Storage” tab below.

Ancho chilies are an essential ingredient in many sauces, moles, soups, and more. They are used primarily for their flavour and not to add heat to a dish. They are frequently pureed and added to soups and sauces. Ground or flaked anchos may be used the same way, or as a condiment or late addition to dishes.

Dried anchos can be soaked and pureed, then used in this format as a quick (and smooth) addition to sauces and soups. Likewise the flavourful liquid that results from soaking the peppers is often used as an ingredient itself, and will impart a milder version of the same hot-sweet flavour.

Dried and ground or flaked anchos can be used virtually anywhere that you’d used a standard chili powder, though it’s worth noting that they impart a distinctive fruity flavour of their own, and not a generic hot-pepper flavour. Ground anchos make an especially good addition to dairy-based sauces and other mild preparations that don’t require much cooking.

Like most dried peppers, ancho chilies are a quite tough on their own and are generally blended or otherwise incorporated into a dish. However, there are some dishes that call for whole (softened) peppers, often stuffed.

Preparation

Ancho chilies require a low-to-moderate amount of preparation, though the particular method(s) necessary will vary from recipe to recipe. As a general rule, the stems are removed and discarded, and the pepper is sliced open to discard the seeds (though this is often optional depending on the desired heat of the final dish, as the seeds and membranes are the spiciest part of the pepper).

Ancho chilies, likes many other dried chilies, are often toasted in a dry pan to accentuate their flavour. The toasted chilies are then generally rehydrated in warm water or stock, then used (plus or minus the flavourful soaking liquid) in a recipe. In some cases, they’re added directly to a soup or sauce, especially if the end result is pureed. The particular method necessary are usually specified in a given recipe, but these basic principles can easily be used by the cook looking to create or adapt a recipe featuring anchos.

Whole ancho chilies are easily dried and pulverized in a spice grinder, food processor, or large mortar and pestle to create chili flakes. Discard the stems before crushing, and (if desired) remove the seeds for a milder end product. Ground chili powder is a little harder to achieve at home because of lingering moisture and the tough skins of the chilies, but it can be made by further drying chili flakes and running them through a good spice grinder. Do not try to grind ancho chilies without toasting/drying them first, as they generally contain enough moisture to make the end product gummy.

Storage

Ancho chilies should be stored in an airtight container to prevent them from either absorbing or losing excess moisture. Store the peppers in a cool, dark cupboard to ensure that they retain their flavour.

Ground and flaked chilies should be stored in a similar fashion.

Ancho chilies themselves are not terribly variable, though it is worth noting a that mulato peppers are a close relative, also made from dried poblano peppers.

Given the wealth of peppers both dried and fresh in Central and South American cuisine, it should come as little surprise that substitutes for ancho chilies are simple to find in some ways, and rather difficult in others. There are many other dried peppers – some of these make appropriate replacements, while others are far too different to be used.

The best substitute is probably the pasilla chili, whose taste is similar, though somewhat earthier and less fruity. Pasilla chilies have similar raisin and coffee tasting notes, and it tends to be a little hotter than the average ancho. It’s worth noting that many peppers sold as pasillas in the USA and Canada are actually ancho chilies anyway.

Mulato chilies (which are also a dried poblano) are a respectable second choice – they’re relatively similar in terms of flavour, however it’s worth noting that because mulatos are picked when riper than anchos, and because poblano peppers become hotter as they ripen, mulato peppers are generally spicier (sometimes significantly so) than anchos. Mulato peppers also tend to be sweeter and smokier, with cherry, chocolate, and/or licorice notes. Ancho chiles are a little milder, with coffee and raisin notes.

It’s worth noting that anchos, mulatos, and pasillas together make up the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Mexican chilies. While they all possess similar features, each is valued for its distinctive flavour. It therefore shouldn’t come as a surprise that Mexican cooks don’t generally treat them as interchangeable. In fact, they’re often used in concert to great effect, lending complex and nuanced flavour to many Mexican dishes.

Ground, flaked, and whole ancho chilies are semi-interchangeable; the flavours are similar (though ground preparations are often milder), but whole anchos will lend a fruitier flavour as well as a textural element when rehydrated and added to a recipe. If you are using ground anchos, try to ensure that they’re as fresh as possible – crushed chilies begin to lose their flavour after processing. If you have the option, the best results will generally be obtained by using whole chilies that you toast and process yourself.